Welcome to Zimbabwe

Beira was the last town in Mozambique, I visited. Now, I made my way towards Zimbabwe. For quite some time, it was not clear, whether I can go there or not. One two weeks before, there were elections held in Zimbabwe. Well, elections and Africa - usually it is best to stay put at these times. Especially in Zimbabwe. Five years ago, there were big problems afterwards, with fights, riots and dead people on both sides of the two opponent parties. But this time, there was no problem - more than 60% of the votes for Mugabe. Many say a good fake by Mugabe, much better than only 50 plus percent, which would make the opposition claim, that this was not a proper election. Better having a fake with a huge amount of votes and no riots afterwards... Well, this was what a lot of people told me...

However, it was quiet enough to enter.

 

Ann and Emma, Ann Bruce Backpackers, Mutare, Zimbabwe

 

The fact that the Zimbabweans are especially friendly people, I heard already before, but it is different to experience it yourself. For example at the border. I just entered the country, have been maybe five meters inside, then this boy showed up, maybe 10 or 11 years old. The boy had a gigantic orange in his hand. He came to me, gave me the orange and said "Welcome to Zimbabwe". How great is this! And to say it right away - it just stayed like that! Wherever I went in Zimbabwe, locals were glad to see me, happy about the fact, that at least one tourist is there! There are really only a handful of tourists there, although it is not less safe than the neighboring countries, probably safer than quite a few parts of South Africa!

 

I always wanted to see Great Zimbabwe, the old capital. This is about 35 kilometers from Masvingo. Masvingo is easy to reach by public bus. But further on to Mutirikwi lake is difficult. In the bus, I got to know two nice local ladies, who offered me a seat in their husband's car to the village before Great Zimbabwe. Great!

Garden Norma Jean Hotel, Lake Mutirikwi, Zimbabwe

When the husband heard that, he did not like the idea at all, to drop me somewhere at the village - instead he took me all the way to the hotel, where I wanted to stay! This is more than 20 kilometers. One-way...

The hotel is situated on a hill overlooking the lake - and absolutely great location. Besides, it has a lovely garden, a nice restaurant and all sorts of accommodation, from camping till luxury chalet. And the staff was very nice! What does one need or want more?

 

Lake Mutirikwi, Zimbabwe

 

Via Nampula and Beira towards Zimbabwe

It turned out, that I was able to leave from there with the father of the family to the next town, to Nampula. Though I also had to get up early, because he had to be at 07.00 o'clock in the work - in Nampula, which is 2 hours away... But well, getting up at 3am did not shock me anymore by that time.

Beira, Mozambique

 

In Nampula I got to know Daniel from Holland. He is half Spanish, which again made it easier to travel in Mozambique, as he understood most and could make himself understood. Together, we went to Beira. At least, we there, we were lucky with our bus and the driver. This was important, was it a long way from Nampula to Beira - nearly 1000 kilometers. 14 hours, and we were there. In Beira there are a lot of old, crumbling houses from the colonial times. In between multistory houses from the socialist time. 

 

 

 

 

The mixture is somehow exciting! Here, I finally found local music CDs. I need them for my presentations. Unfortunately, there was no CD player, but for one dollar per CD, there is not so much, which can go wrong....

Beira, Simbabwe

Beira, Simbabwe

Beira, Simbabwe

Ilha de Mozambique

Ilha de Mozambique

The Ilha is really very nice! A four-kilometer-long bridge connects the island with the mainland. Earlier Ilha de Mozambique was the capital of the island. The town was founded by the Portuguese and you can still see the influence of the colonial times in the architecture. The houses have different colors, mostly pastel tones; there is a gigantic fort and a museum. The best is to take your time wander through the old cobbled lanes.

My lodging, a homestay, was also great! Living with a local family, eat together with them and getting tips about country and people. Much better than a hotel!

Ilha de Mozambique

Ilha de Mozambique

Ilha de Mozambique

Ilha de Mozambique

Bus adventures in Mozambique

One of the highlights in the northern part of the country is Ilha de Mozambique. The bus going there was anything but a highlight. When boarding the bus, I was astonished that there were so many water canisters on board. Well, we needed all of them. The tube towards the water cooler had a hole and a man was constantly filling water - which came out as fast below as he did put it in on top. We carried about 150 liters - this lasted for 20-25 kilometers. Depending on the gradient - and there were many hills! After 20 or 25 km, we had to stop at a well or a river to fill up the canisters. We were not the fastest bus, that's for sure!

 

Filling up water, Bus in Mozambique

 

For 400 kilometers we needed 14 hours. However, I was only so quick, because I ran out of patience and changed the bus somewhere midway. I have no idea, how long the others were on the road.

Beach holiday, Pemba, Mozambique

Beach in Pemba, Mozambique

Pemba is a beach resort town with a very long sandy beach, many hotels and restaurants. There is not so much else. Three hours on the beach and I earned myself a big sunburn, from staying in the shade of a palm tree! The remaining day, I put myself in a hammock under the gigantic tree at the hotel.

 

Beach in Pemba, Mozambique

 

 

 

 

Travelling by bus in Mozambique - horrible departure times

In Mocimboa there Praia, there is not really much to see.

But, at least, I could organize my bus ticket to Pemba. Busses in Mozambique leave at absolutely crazy times - in the morning around 4am! These bad bus times are all over Mozambique. All busses drive off between 3 and 5 o'clock in the morning. Even, if the place is only 2 hours away... And once there, for sure, you cannot catch onward transport, as the bus to the next city already left as well. And there is only one - or if there are others, they leave all at the same time in the morning!

 

Bus in Mozambique

Taxis are expensive - 20 US for 4 kilometers.... So, I had to find a way to go from the campground to the bus station without paying a fortune. At 3.30am....

At the end, I went together with the Askari (night watchman) by bicycle to the bus.... At 3 o'clock we left (of course, after I had packed my tent and backpack - very nicely at night!), the Askari had my big backpack on his bike, I had the small one, and so we cycled on this sandy, potholed track four kilometers to the bus station. Later, it turned out, that there was no need to hurry that much. The bus did not leave till 5.00am!

Bye bye Tanzania, hello Mozambique

Then the "vacation of the vacation" was over. In the morning at 4.30 am the night was over and I went by Tuktuk to Mtwara. This had to be so early because the collective taxis to the ferry on River Ruvuma to Mozambique go early as well. And they go so early because the ferry can only cross the ferry on high tide. Otherwise the boat would get stranded on one of the sand banks of the river. At least, getting up early makes sense!

 

Ferry to Mozambique

In the collective taxi I got to know Monica from Brazil. How great is that! In Mozambique, people speak Portuguese - also in Brazil.... This made the whole thing sooooo much easier!

The ferry was no problem, the water was still high enough and we crossed without any problems to the other side. For 2 dollars per person we rented two young men to reserve seats for us in the bus... First, I thought, this is a bad joke - however, it is not! Without such help- no way to get a place in the bus, sitting or standing! Well, as soon was the ferry is about to land, people jump out and run to the coach. Approx. 150. The coach has about 40 seats and as many standing places.... Without the help of these two young men, no way for us to get on board!

 

Well, however, our seats were safe. Four hours later we arrived in Mocimboa there Praia. The first bigger town after the border. Well, all other towns are even smaller than this one...

The camping place "Chez Natalie" is rather outside of town, so it took a bit to find it.

Relaxing days in Mikindani, Tanzania

Mikindani, Tansania

The next morning around 05.00 poor Hector took me to the bus - actually really up to the coach. It was incredibly darkly there. Hundreds of wanabe passengers wandered in the bus station in search of their bus. For sure, mine was last in the long row. It's always like this.

The bus needed eight hours to Mikindani, which is some minutes before Mtwara. That's, where I got out of the bus, as I already heard from other travelers, that Mtwara is neither nice nor interesting.

Mikindani, Tansania

Mikindani is both - very small, only a few thousand people live here. But absolutely charming locals, a few old Swahili houses, palm trees, banana plants, many Baobab trees. And a really nice Guesthouse - 10 Degrees South. Here, I did a 2-day stop to recharge batteries. 

These were nice and restful days in Mikindani - going for a walk in the palm gardens, drinking tea in one of the small shops, watching women doing mats out of palm leaves, examining vegetables and fruit with the locals in their garden and shop directly there.

Baobab, Mikindani, Tansania

Mikindani is also a great diving spot - have a look under http://www.eco2tz.com/

I am no diver, but the photos look quite great!

 

Mikindani, Tansania

The complete mess- Ubunto bus station, Dar es Salam

From Zanzibar, I went back to Dar es Salam by ferry. Full of impressions of the Muslim party of all parties which marks the end of the Ramadan. Four years ago, I also spent the end of the Ramadan in Zanzibar - but this time it was much bigger, a lot more people and even more fun than last time. Many Muslims from Kenya and Tanzania had specially come to the party to Zanzibar, so there were many local tourists. Of course, also many, who have family on the island and came for visit.

 

Dar es Salam, Tansania

Hector, the friend of Yusuf, from the Philippines fetched me at the ferry and took me to his home. It was again a Sunday, so there was again a small Philippine party with fish soup, Sushi & Co.

In the afternoon, I went with the maid Happiness (it is really her name!!!) to the bus station to get a bus ticket for tomorrow. Just by myself, I would have been lost there. Ubuntu bus station is just a mess. This bus station is gigantic - everywhere travelers, self-appointed guides, taxi drivers, shop assistants of all sorts and other dubious characters, who only want to "help". All nonsense.

It was difficult enough to find the right office for the bus to Mtwara, even with Happiness. Of course the ticket seller was not amused, when Happiness explained him that there is no tourist tax on coach tickets and he should not tell such nonsense.

So I got my ticket for exact the same price like everybody else...

Zanzibar - celebrations for the End of Ramadan, beaches and Colobus monkeys...

Now, I am in Zanzibar, again at the end of the Ramadan. Four years back I

Stonetown, Zanzibar

simply loved to be here for the festival at the end of Ramadan and so I did not have any problem, being here again for the same event. Everywhere happy people, everywhere interesting food, everybody in new clothes. The men were while clothes, the women all sorts of colors, the small girls look out like princesses in their beautiful dresses. Everywhere glitters and sparkles. All women from the baby girl up had make up.

In the whole town, there are musicians. Everywhere singing, drumming and dancing. There is probably no better time for Stonetown, Zanzibar than just right now.

Celebrating the end of Ramadan, Zanzibar

Celebrating the end of Ramadan, Zanzibar

Celebrating the end of Ramadan, Zanzibar

All kinds of food at the end of Ramadan, Zanzibar

Shopping for the end of Ramadan, Zanzibar

Pemba, the neighboring island, is extremely difficult to reach. Earlier, there was every day a speedboat, currently there are only night ferries, which need anything in between 8 and 12 hours. Also, once in a while they like to drown.... There are speedboats only once per week - on Wednesdays. And now, with the party going on, nobody wants to work for sure, so, even the normal ferry was cancelled twice... Well, in this case, you always have to leave something for a next time...

Well, for sure, there are all these nice beaches here. But Zanzibar has some interesting animals as wel - there are the red Colobus monkeys. They are living only in Zanzibar. Actually, it is astonishing, that they still exist. They are so sleepy, that it would be very easy just to pluck them from a tree...

Colobus Monkey, Zanzibar

Colobus Monkey, Zanzibar

Colobus Monkey, Zanzibar

 

On the road again - to Dar es Salam, Tanzania

After one week in Mombasa I went in a 10 hours bus trip to Dar Es Salam. In Dar Es Salam lives Hector, a friend of Yusuf. Hector is not an African, but Pilipino, who lives in Dar Es Salam since four years. When I arrived, the house was of full people. Every Sunday, Hector and his friends gather and cook together. So, the house was filled with about 20 Philippines’ of all ages. Some prepared food in the kitchen, the children sat in front of TV and the men were outdoors with beer, coke and whisky. It was very much an amusing evening with a very unexpected menu - sushi, fish soup and octopus with Sticky Rice.....

As dessert sweet rice - very viscous, very sweet and very nice.....